By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. It only takes a minute to sign up. Lately I've been experiencing an issue regarding my charging system. When I measure voltage at the battery terminals while engine is idling, it's a pretty low Revving the engine can top me out at 13V.

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Does this mean the alternator is good but the battery is just not getting enough power? Because as I said the alternator DOES charge the battery slightly, but all of the power doesn't seem to be getting to the battery. One thing I did notice was the ground wire from the negative battery terminal is exposed, and oxidized it's greenI have been suspicious of that ground but before I replace it I want to know if that could possibly cause low voltage, or if the solution might be in another area.

And does that mean my alternator is outputting good power?

Wire from solenoid to alternator not connected, why

EDIT: Problem was fixed, it was the ground cable. Run the engine at 2k RPM. Turn on all the loads blower on high, headlights on, rear defrost on, and so forth. Measure the voltage across the battery and the big bat alternator terminal to alternator case. There are two things that you are looking for.

The charging voltage should be between Also the voltage at the battery and the voltage at the alternator should be within 0.

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If the voltage at the battery and alternator don't match. For example the battery reads 12v and alternator reads 14v.

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This means that there is an issue with wiring. While applying the same conditions as above. Put the black multimeter probe on the negative battery terminal if possible dig it into the battery post, not the terminal. Put the red probe on the alternator case. Your looking for the voltage to be below about 0. If the voltage is higher than that examine all the negative cabling for problems.They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement.

Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne. I understand the concept of fusible links but they are not installed directly from the battery to the alternator from the factory. I am looking for more of an education of the subject not just a "do this".

Fusible links also come in different gauges so wouldn't that be just as important to the answer? Going through the cars regular wiring resulted in the alt seeing too low a voltage causing it to try to generate more power to charge the batter, thus putting a heavier load on the engine and belt resulting in belt squeal. The direct wire gave a truer reading of the batter voltage at the alt, ie higher, resulting in less alternator load and eliminating the resultant belt squeal.

At least, that's what I 'think' it was about. Dave www. GM has started to place fusible links between the alternator and battery. The LS4s had a A one and I kept it for my swap. Running a cable directly from the battery to the alternator used to be the common way to hook them up.

The only concern adding a direct wire is protecting it so it doesn't get pinched, rubbed, cut, etc I bought a car from him sight unseen and drove it back down here to Texas. If OE alt wiring is too thin now then make a new heavier wire and fuse link and put sense wire to alt output.

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Works and less headaches for most people. Might find heavy PnP alt wire jeggs etc. Sound system issues? See my Cave, Watt Story to understand cap use.

Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. In the same post I read here on this site a while ago the guy also ran a ground from the alternator to the battery. When I took the alternator off it was loose at the bottom bracket. Also the top bracket that connects to the side of the engine and accommodates the dog bone had a bolt on the bottom that was very loose.

Now I am wondering if my alternator is OK but the ground was not adequate. I went and bought a rebuilt alternator and saw it had an area for a ground wire to be hooked up.When our hot rods were new, the limited output of the alternator was enough to sustain the power needed to run the engine with the headlights on.

Back then, high-amp stereos, electronic ignitions, and fuel injection were not part of the power draw on the battery. That meant there was no need for high-amp alternators.

Amp ratings range from toand include either a single or double V-groove pulley, or a six-groove serpentine pulley.

Now however, those classic cars are receiving upgrades like high-output ignitions, stereo systems that shatter windows, and add-on electronics that definitely put a serious draw on the stock alternator.

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It has a patented, low cut-in regulator. Tuff Stuff's OEM or one-wire alternators are usable in both one-wire and three-wire installations. With a one-wire install, simply connect the charge wire from to alternator battery post left to the battery.

Tuff Stuff does recommend upgrading the charge wire to a larger gauge smaller numberas the factory wiring might not be capable of carrying the extra amperes without melting. If you plan to use the factory three-wire installation, install the charge wire to the post, then remove the black plug right and connect your factory two-wire connector.

As lights and other accessories draw current from the battery, energy is replenished by the alternator. To keep the battery fully charged, the alternator must provide more amperes than the accessory load on the battery. That is not true.

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If the voltage regulator is properly functioning, it will safely keep the battery fully charged and ready for use. To figure out what amperes output you should use, simply add up the amperes usage of everything in the vehicle. That includes headlights and tail lights, electric fuel and water pumps, and high-power stereo systems. There is no easy answer, as both styles have come a long way in regard to the technology they incorporate.

Upgrading the charge wire is highly recommended, as the factory wiring might not be up to snuff with the new, high-output alternator. Tuff Stuff has dedicated charge wires that are large enough to carry the amperes, and have high-quality, crimped-on brass connectors.

Tuff Stuff recommends an 8-gauge wire for its amp alternators, and a step up to a 6-gauge wire if the battery is in the trunk. A amp unit should use a 6-gauge wire, and 4-gauge to the trunk. All amp units should have a 4-gauge wire and a 2-gauge to the trunk.

If you are starting a project from scratch or you want to minimize the amount of wires in your engine bay, a one-wire alternator will simplify the installation. The only drawback to using a one-wire alternator in GM vehicles has to do with the ALT warning lamp idiot light on the dash. The two-wire connector houses the exciter wire, which is responsible for turning off the in-dash light.

However, Tuff Stuff alternators like the, and series can be wired to turn off a warning light.Your car's ground wire, also known as a "ground cable" or "ground strap," is perhaps the single most important wire in its entire electrical system. Think of the ground wire or cable as your electrical system's foundation, the bridge over which all electrical flow must tread. A bad ground connection will ruin your electrical system's day, which makes establishing a good one an extremely high-priority project.

This is one of the more obvious signs of a bad ground, manifesting in much the same way as a loose battery cable or a dead battery. When you attempt to start your car, you may hear a single click or a rapid tapping; this is the sound of the starter's solenoid opening or closing, or the sound of the starter's Bendix drive moving.

The solenoid requires a certain amount of voltage to operate; if the ground is bad, then the solenoid will function, but the starter motor will absorb all of the current flow and shut the solenoid off. You headlights will do the same thing as the starter, but will likely dim instead of dying outright. A constant bad ground -- resulting from a frayed or damaged cable -- will create resistance in the circuit, which will deprive the headlights of power and cause them to dim.

alternator ground wire not connected

This may or may not be the case with xenon arc HID headlights, where a drop in input voltage may fail to initiate the lighting arc altogether. A cable that is simply loose may cause the lights to flicker as the circuit gains and loses the ground.

A battery that refuses to take a charge is one sign of a bad ground. The ground is a major part of the battery's charging system, so assuming that you're getting proper voltage output from the alternator wire, and the battery isn't hashed, then you may be looking at a bad ground wire.

If the ground wire is loose, then the alternator won't deliver its full power to the battery, particularly at idle. The simplest way to check for a bad ground is to run a continuity test between the battery and the chassis. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the probe ends of a digital multimeter -- set to read volts DC -- to the negative and positive battery terminals.

Record the reading; you should get something in the neighborhood of Next, remove the DMM lead from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the terminal on the disconnected negative battery cable. Your DMM should read within about 0. If you get a voltage reading of anything below This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.

To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Dead Battery A battery that refuses to take a charge is one sign of a bad ground. Testing the Ground The simplest way to check for a bad ground is to run a continuity test between the battery and the chassis.

About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply. Hottest Questions. Previously Viewed. Unanswered Questions. Electrical Troubleshooting.

Where is the Ground wire on alternator from battery? Wiki User There usually isn't one. The vehicle becomes the ground, and since the alternator is physically attached to the engine, the case of the alternator becomes the ground. Note that the battery is also connected to the vehicle chassis, usually at 2 or more points, and that the engine usually has a grounding strap to some solid point on the chassis.

Related Questions Asked in Alternators, Car Batteries, Batteries Can a bad alternator burn the wire between the battery and alternator? Yes, if it shorts to ground internally. Asked in Batteries How do you wire alternator to a battery to test alternator?

alternator ground wire not connected

Asked in Car Batteries, Mitsubishi Galant Why would the alternator in your Mitsubishi galant not be charging the battery when it is not defective? Asked in Car Starting Problems Will a bad ground wire ruin an alternator? Asked in Car Batteries How do you replace battery cables? You have to disconnect the ground wire from the block. You have to disconnect the positive wire from the starter and the alternator and the powerline going to the fuse box. Asked in Alternators, Car Batteries Why does battery go dead when hooked up but alternator is good in geo metro?

ALternator fuses, if equipped may be on the battery post, in a fuse box, or in the wire going from the battery to the alternator. Asked in Classic Ford Mustangs How do you convert a mustang generator to an alternator? Not much to it, get the one wire alternator, and brackets from a and mount it up, belts will be the same as thewire goes to the battery. Asked in Car Batteries, Buick Park Avenue What would cause a good battery to not stay charged on a buick park avenue 86? I know this is why mine on my vehicle would not stay charged.

There are a two ways to wire an alternator. It depends on what type of vehicle options you had on your If you have just lights you use the Stator on the back of the alternator. There are only four things on the back. If you have lights and not gauges GT's The stator will be the wire in the middle of the three wire feed to the Alternator. The ground will ground to the engine block and the black wire on the harness.

The White wire on the harness is the Field wire and goes back to the voltage regulator. Disconnect the battery ground, disconnect the wire from the back of the alternator which goes to the battery positive, unbolt the alternator from the bracket, detach any remaining wiring from the alternator, the replacement procedure is the same in reverse.Download it here.

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alternator ground wire not connected

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Boat Info. Wire from solenoid to alternator not connected, why. Thread starter emergpa1 Start date Mar 7, JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Oct 2, 1, Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga. Hey guys, quick question. Want to know why A red wire from my solenoid to my alternator is not connected to the alternator.

I have a Yannmar 3Gm The wire has never been hooked to the alternator as I can tell. The engine diagram shows the wire going from the solenoid to the alternator.

The fused switch wire and of course the wire coming from the battery switch is connected. I am currently wiring a balmar external smart charger for an alternator upgrade. I am sure I will have more questions! Maine Sail. Now a similar question ha ha why does the wire come off the alternator to the cooling water temperature light.

alternator ground wire not connected

This wire, I believe, excites the voltage regulator? Why does it come off the water cooling water temperature light? And of course, most importantly, how do I connect it to on the Balmar external regulator wiring harness? Hmm trouble loading two photos here is the other one. Perhaps it is simply there to confuse me, causing me to stop, scratch my head and spend quite a bit of time wondering about that which has no answer? Well guys, I wish you would hurry up I'm trying to wire this damn alternator and balmar external regulator sitting in the engine compartment of my cockpit and I'm in Brunswick and it is actually spitting snow.

I called electro Max earlier and he helped me with another step but I would really like to try to figure this out without calling them again so soon.We are commonly asked how to wire the Delco SI series alternators upon maintenance or upgrading from an older generator.

If you are looking for the no charge indicator light on the dash to function as well, this should help determine which connection to use. The ignition switch is most commonly powered from the starter battery stud, but source may vary depending on application.

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With key on power is then transferred through the no charge indicator light to the 1 spade on the alternator regulator connection. Depending on switch circuitry there may also be a diode before the 1 spade to prevent the current when charging from back feeding the ignition switch and not allowing unit shut down.

The third spade connection in this diagram is optional and will not be present on all units. This is one of the three phase connections and is most commonly used to function electronic tachometers.

How to Understand Alternator Wires

This connection is not necessary for unit to function even if it is present. The 1 regulator connection must be off with ignition off to prevent battery drain.

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Alternator ground connection is the casing, grounding back through bracketing and eventually through battery ground cable. Make sure all connections, including battery ground cable, are clean and tight. Always use caution when modifying a system. Hi Peter — the should be a good replacement with the R terminal to operate the tach. Can anyone recommend an alternator with AC tap to operate a tach.?

Output should be about 60 amp. Just make sure it goes off with key off. It could be either, the tachometer is reading the speed of the alternator regardless of what type of engine is powering it. Blade three is used for the tachometer. Would you engine need to be a gas for the tachometer to work or can it work with a diesel?

Your name. Your email. Your message. Share this post Previous post Next Post. Comments Dave Smith - April 29, Hi Peter — the should be a good replacement with the R terminal to operate the tach. How are GM SI series alternators wired without a warning lamp?